Not only will TSAI Sharpen the image but it can fix motion blurring that we so often experienced in the old days □Īnd, I think I prefer overall the Epson software, but neither was a home run. Their sharpening code is basic and I think you will get far better results by using Topaz Sharpen AI. Personally I turn off the sharpening in Vuescan and Epson Scan. Right click on the image in an area that should be neutral to white balance the image. I plan to become more proficient with both the Epson and VueScan programs. I wish the Epson software had an EV scale exposure correction as does Nikon NX Studio. I am getting better colors and sharpness using the Epson software, but the infrared feature of VueScan does better than the Digital ICE in the Epson software at removing defects. My initial impressions is that the IQ and ease of use of the V600 exceeds that of my old Minolta DiMage Elite II scanner. I scanned mostly with the Epson software, but also tried a few with VueScan. I would like to inform everybody that I received yesterday the Epson V600 scanner and tried it on scanning 12+ Kodacolar Gold 200 shots from 1988. As hectorsm says use digital ICE on older negatives / slides - I don’t use USM but you can try both and see which gives you best results. It may give you a smoother final result EpsonScan is a good program and gives good results. That was scanning at 3600ppi, but to be honest I don’t think >2400ppi will give you better real resolution. Ive done resolution tests on the V550 (essentially the same as the V600) and it tops out around the 1600 ppi mark ( ). Once set up this is much faster and more convenient than scanning the slides, at least that was my experience. With negatives use a clear orange piece of film to set the white balance for negatives and again colours, after inversion are reasonable. Use a custom white balance based on the LED backlight and your colours are close to start with. Personally, I think you you might be better off using your camera and a macro lens or normal lens with auto extension tubes and the JJC slide/negative copier. My guess is that if your negatives are in good conditions, you probably don't need those settings. I always use Digital ICE, and unsharp mask because my negatives are very old and not in very good condition. If you plan to print any of them very large, maybe the higher dpi might be useful. 2400dpi will also scans faster, but it's going to be a slow process regardless. In most cases I could not tell the difference between the two. At first, I tried 4,000 dpi and the files where around 50MB. I felt that anything beyond 2400dpi was giving me diminishing returns in terms of quality. Using 24bit color and 2400dpi gives seems to give me the best compromise. I want to hit the ground running with this device. In addition to the Epson software, I also have a VueScan license, so I can use that program as well. Also, I would appreciate some recommendations on things such as dust removal, Digital ICE, and unsharp mask settings. Since my cameras shoot lossless compressed RAW files at 27-30 MB, I perhaps was thinking a similar file size for a scanned TIFF I would use as a master. I would appreciate some opinions as to optimal settings to get high image quality scans of 35mm color negatives and slides without making the file size exceedingly big. I recently purchased an Epson V600 scanner mainly for scanning negatives and slides that should be delivered to me by the end of the week.
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